Chefs and Bartenders Spoke Out Against ICE Raids Even As They Partied at James Beard Awards

The restaurant industry showed off its style, value, and ability to party at the James Beard Restaurant and Chef Gala on Monday, June 16.

The James Beard Awards are sometimes called the Oscars of food, but the 35th annual ceremony at the Lyric Opera in Chicago on Monday focused on the political moment far more than Hollywood did at the Academy Awards in March. It would admittedly have been hard to ignore, given tens of thousands of people flooded downtown Chicago for the “No Kings” protest against the Trump administration on Saturday, as nominees were arriving in town and attending the many pop-ups and pre-parties.

James Beard Foundation chief executive officer Clare Reichenbach set the tone early by noting the industry was “gathered at a time of discord, challenge, and fear” and crediting the immigrant community for leading and providing the underpinning of the restaurant industry. “We get to taste the world because of them,” Reichenbach said on stage. “Today we celebrate the full breadth of your work, your impact and your value. Our job at the James Beard Foundation is to champion you, to support you, help you find solutions to the challenges at hand so that together, we can push for a safe, sustainable, and thrilling food world.”

Presenter Tahiirah Habibi broke from her prepared remarks to urge audience members not to be bystanders: “Don’t let fear decide what side of history you land on,” she said. Gov. JB Pritzker, who has regularly sparred with the Trump administration over immigration policy, also spoke to celebrate the awards’ 10th year in Chicago.

“Across this nation we need to celebrate the rich tradition of diversity and find time for more cultural exchange,” he said. “At this time, it feels like we need that togetherness more than ever before.”

Diversity hasn’t always been a core value of the James Beard Awards, which faced a reckoning in 2020 when it canceled the ceremony amidst the COVID-19 pandemic, accusations of misconduct, and the revelations that it wouldn’t have any Black winners. But the organization’s reform efforts have borne significant fruit and many of Monday’s winners used their moment in the spotlight to reflect on their own immigrant experiences.

Arjav Ezekiel, who won for Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service for Birdie’s, Austin, refused to be played off the stage as he talked about how the restaurant industry was the only place he could find a job as an undocumented immigrant. Best Chef: Mountain winner Salvador Alamilla of Amano in Caldwell, Idaho, said he hoped to provide a beacon of hope in his red state, reflecting on the irony that immigrants are being deported even as his own story was being honored.

Among the heartfelt testimonials were simpler but no less clear messages. Best Chef: Great Lakes winner Noah Sandoval of Oriole in Chicago didn’t attend the ceremony, sending a message to be read on his behalf. It said that he was focusing on his mental health that ended with “Fuck ICE.” Presenter Sean Sherman, who won the 2022 James Beard Award for New Restaurant for Owamni in Minneapolis, echoed the sentiment.

Nevertheless, the chefs still came to party. As usual the red carpet was a riot of styles including cowboy hats, kilts, and kimonos. Habibi stunned in a segmented silver gown that gave the appearance of glass scales and Best Chef: Midwest Karyn Tomlinson of Myriel in St. Paul, Minnesota represented the region in a pink dress her grandmother wore in the ’40s when she was crowned “dazzle corn queen.” Top Chef Masters winner Marcus Samuelsson wore a hot pink hat and a black and white suit similar to the one he sported at the 2021 Met Gala.

As the presenters worked to keep the show moving, they also repeatedly hyped up the party awaiting guests just a few blocks away at Union Station. They shared footage of the James Beard Award nominees, semifinalists, and past winners cooking, teasing dishes like black-eyed pea soup with Gulf crab from Serigne Mbaya of Dakar NOLA in New Orleans, which was well worth the wait. Other highlights included nominee Jeff Chanchaleune of Oklahoma City’s Mar Der Lao Kitchen serving Laotian larb tartare made with Oklahoma bison, and English pea wontons from Christina Nguyen of Hai Hai, Minneapolis, served in a bowl with tom kha broth that needed to be quickly slurped to avoid spilling a drop in the packed crowd of 1,900.

Lines were long and trash seemed to pile up on tables as there weren’t enough bins around, but the Champagne and cocktails were flowing freely. Indienne sommelier Tia Polite and Asador Bastian sommelier Christian Shaum doled out caviar bumps complimented by giant blocks of Parmesan and bowls of chocolate. Revelers looking for some signature Chicago treats could pick up little bags of Garrett Popcorn and small slices of Portillo’s chocolate cake.

The partying didn’t stop at Union Station, as attendees waiting for rides debated where to head next. Curtis Duffy’s cocktail bar After made a particularly appropriate setting for an afterparty, hosting an invite-only bash where industry guests were greeted by a wall of pink bubbly Bouquet 75 cocktails. The bar poured a wide variety of novel sips available both with or without spirits while offering trays of sliders and extra decadent spins on their normal bar bites like duck confit steam buns and duck fat tots topped with caviar.

Disclosure: Some Vox Media staff members are part of the voting body for the James Beard Awards. Eater is partnering with the James Beard Foundation to livestream the awards in 2025. All editorial content is produced independently of the James Beard Foundation.