America is a notoriously tough market to break. Ask Kate Moss, who took her Topshop range to New York last week, flying from the Mossmania of London to a distinctly tepid reception stateside, where one influential fashion writer referred to her icily as "the formerly good-looking" Kate Moss. But last bank holiday weekend, one British icon triumphed where many others have faltered.
Americans have gone, in the words of the New York Times, "gaga" for an 81-year-old who shows absolutely no sign of being cowed by size-zero culture and who has almost certainly never heard of Rachel Zoe.
And who can blame them? The Queen is having a fashion moment. The state visit to America was a high-profile showcase for a royal wardrobe that has upped its game considerably in recent years. At one time, the Queen entrusted matters sartorial to Margaret "Bobo" Macdonald, a Scot who had been her nanny as a child. Then, she was fond of suits in Heinz tomato soup red, and of patterned scarves tied fussily at the neck. But since 2002, the Queen's wardrobe has been the domain of senior dresser Angela Kelly, along with dressmaker Alison Pordum, and a quiet revolution has taken place.
The Queen, like all of us, is bound by practical considerations in her working garb: in particular, the challenge of how to make a woman of 5ft 4in ultra-visible at long distance. Hence the use of bright colours and hats, and recognisable silhouettes. (A signature look is something the Americans respect: look at Anna Wintour in her bob and sunglasses.) Recently, the clunky use of paintbox green or red has given way to more daring colour combinations. Probably the highlight of the American wardrobe was Tuesday's chartreuse coat worn over a pink dress, with a hat of overblown pink peonies on a wide chartreuse brim. On Monday, a white suit was edged with a striking black lace collar and cuffs, with matching black lace hat. Black lace, I ask you! At this rate, she'll be shopping at Dolce & Gabbana, Barneys will sell out of Barbours, and Juicy Couture will start selling low-rise tracksuit bottoms in Scottish tweed. Only in America.